Planting Information
"Gardening without the use of artificial fertilisers
and toxic chemicals" is probably the simplest definition
but also the least satisfying. It is rather negative and implies
that you can just sit back and leave it all to nature. This incorrect
believe in turn, leads to the mistaken misconception that organic
gardens are wild, unkempt places where every cabbage is riddled
with holes and every rosebush is blighted with mildew. Organic gardeners
do not just leave their gardens to nature; they use all the methods,
techniques and products at their disposal to work, as far as possible,
with nature.
FIRST, STOP USING CHEMICALS
Safely dispose of all your chemicals, fertilisers and pesticides
so that you are not tempted to use them. This is important as the
harm they do will hamper your efforts to build up an organic system.
SECOND, CARE FOR THE SOIL
Think of the soil in your garden as a living environment in which
earthworms and beneficial bacteria convert organic material and
inorganic soil minerals into plant food. Fertile, humus rich soil
is a storehouse of plant nutrients which are made available to plants
as required and in balanced form. Soil structure is important. Soil
must be friable to permit air and water to enter and to allow plant
roots to forage through it. This is achieved by the addition of
organic material in the form of compost, mulches and green manures.
Composting is possibly one of the most important activities of
the organic gardener. It is an extension of nature's own system
of recycling vegetable matter and returning it to the soil.
It is a perpetual cycle that ha been going on in nature since time
began and there is no better way of keeping the soil in your garden
fertile and healthy. There are other materials that can benefit
the soil which organic gardeners make use of. These include animal
manures, blood and bone mixture, seaweed extract, fish emulsion,
dolomite and rock minerals, to name a few!
THIRD, ENCOURAGE NATURE
Strong vigorous plants will resist disease and insect attach, but
the most effective agents operating to control insect pests are,
and always will be, those that occur in nature. These are the parasites,
predators and diseases of the pests themselves. Natural predators
of insect pests are often reduced to insignificant numbers by the
use of insecticides which are usually non-selective and therefore
eliminate both the pests and predators alike. Moreover, many insect
pests have developed immunity to one or more of the insecticides
which render these chemicals ineffective in controlling them. The
organic gardner does all he or she can to encourage these predators
which include birds, frogs, lizards and may beneficial insects such
as ladybirds, lacewings, preying mantis, and several species of
wasps. The red wasps you see hovering over your lawn and darting
in and out of shrubs and vines during summer months are natural
predators of lawn grubs and caterpillars and will keep these pests
well under control. Magpies which are often to be seen patrolling
suburban lawns and gardens are also busy foraging for grubs in lawns
and larvae in soil. Bacillis Thuringiensis, sold as 'Dipel' is a
bacterial diseases of caterpillars and is useful in controlling
this pest. It is quite harmless except to caterpillars. Crop rotation,
companion planting and the use of disease resistant varieties of
plants are some of the many methods used by organic gardeners as
a means of pest control.
IN CONCLUSION
Changing from chemical to organic gardening and farming means discovering
how nature does things and adopting her methods. For after all,
she as been gardening a lot longer than mankind!
It is a healing process for both the gardner and the gardener.
Aggressive attitudes that seek to subdue nature and bend her will
are replaced by peaceful cooperation and coexistence, and with nature
as your fiend, you cant lose!
Incorporating organic matter into the soil can have several outcomes,
affecting the physical, chemical and biological balances in the
soil. It can:
- change the amount of nitrogen that is available
to plants;
- change the amount of other nutrients available;
- change the way the soil sticks together (soil
aggregation); and
- change the number and type of organisms present
in the soil.
All of these changes are related to the way organic matter is decomposed
when it is incorporated into the soil and to the particular type
of organic matter used.
The Process
When Organic matter is incorporated into soil, the larger organisms
like mites and soil animals break it into smaller pieces. The the
fungi and bacteria start to decompose it by secreting enzymes. When
the enzymes break the molecules into smaller sections, the bacteria
and fungi can use some of the energy or nutrients released for their
own growth.
If there are nutrients that the microbes do not use, they will
be available for other soil organisms or plants to take up and use.
When microbes die, their cells are degraded and nutrients contained
within them become available to plants and other soil organisms.
Microbes can access nitrogen in the soil more easily than plants
can, so the plants sometimes miss out and the plants can become
nitrogen deficient. This is why incorporating organic matter into
so9ils can change the amount nitrogen (and other nutrients) that
is available to plants. This will be a short-term effect that happens
when soils do not have high levels of organic matter and soil microbes.
The Benefits
If the number of fungi and bacteria associated with the breakdown
of organic matter increases, there may be some improvements to the
soil structure. Adding organic matter can also increase the activity
of earthworms, which in turn can also improve soil aggregation.
If organic matter is retained in the soil, the number of microbes
in the soil increases. This is because the microbes can use the
organic matter as a source of energy and so they can grow and multiply.
Soil
Health
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